These Karen Strand for Anton Michelsen earrings sold for $78USD on eBay in 2017.

Denmark and modernism truly go hand-in-hand. From art, decor, furnishings, and even jewelry, the Nordic country and innovative design movement spanned multiple mediums that have remained popular to this day. One of the many designers who contributed to the aesthetic and popularity of Danish modern jewelry was Karen Strand.

Strand was born in 1924 in Denmark, and she later became one of the first female students at the College of Jewellery and Silversmithing in Copenhagen. Her talents were recognized early in her career: “In 1953, she won the first prize in the Jeweller’s Competition.” After her studies, Strand worked as a designer for various metal-smithing shops, her primary mediums being sterling silver and karat gold jewelry. Notably, she was employed by Just Andersend (after his death), A. Michelsen, and A. Dragsted.

In the mid-1950s she crafted several notable brooches for Michelsen, including the 55 sterling silver Persian palm motif brooch. At A. Dragsted, she designed a popular “1956 parer based on the lyre, followed by a more elaborate necklace design of two rows of silver petals.” She later went on to become the artistic director for A. Dragsted, before striking out on her own in 1962. Her workshop produced mainly gold jewelry.

After living and working in Norway for some time, she returned to Denmark in 1973, where she retired. In 1992, Strand was integral to the opening of the Danish Jewellery Museum on the Island of Man. In the year 2000, at the age of 76, she passed away in Copenhagen.

Though Karen Strand jewelry pieces are not plentiful, they are fairly easy to identify. All pieces, including those commissioned while under the employ of another workshop, are marked with Strand’s name. Of course, they are also typically marked with the workshop name (if not her own workshop) and the type of metal.


This 18k gold and sunstone necklace sold for $3,800USD on eBay in 2018.


Most Karen Strand pieces are brooches, necklaces, and bracelets. The Persian palm brooch is fairly common and can be easily identified based on its distinctive shape and appropriate markings. Items made in the Strand workshop are recognizable for their use of gold and semi-precious gemstones such as sunstone, lapis, and turquoise.

The most coveted Strand pieces are those made with more expensive materials: the gold and stone-encrusted examples from her workshop. This is consistent, of course, with general jewelry collecting trends. Thus, one can expect a Karen Strand necklace or bracelet to fetch thousands at auction. The more common sterling silver examples, especially brooches, can be found more affordably. Indeed the Persian palm brooch is offered fairly frequently and can be snagged for less than $100USD. This is due to the less expensive materials and the decreased popularity of brooches in contemporary fashions.


This Karen Strand for Anton Michelsen Persian palm brooch sold for $42.07USD on eBay in 2020.


Karen Strand jewelry is, arguably, an ideal entry point into collecting Danish modernist jewelry. Her body of work includes commonly found pieces that are still made of quality materials and crafted in the spirit of high design. That said, there are also more unique pieces to be found, which are ideal for those looking to grow a collection in a specific, refined direction.

When shopping for Strand jewelry, or other vintage studio pieces, condition is paramount. Precious metals, of course, can show many signs of wear and tear, including tarnishing, scratching, and even dents or bends depending on how soft the metal is. Proper care and cleaning is a significant concern, as the wrong solution can be detrimental to the luster of jewelry in the long and short term.

Furthermore, because her mark is easily identified, it is worth noting as you shop. By taking just a moment with a jeweler’s loop to glance at it, you can make a more informed buying decision. The mark designating the metal is also important because these marks are regulated and should be accurate.

So if you are looking for a unique accessory, a collectible to serve as an investment, or just a small work of art to enjoy on your vanity, Karen Strand jewelry might be the perfect piece for you. As collectors niche down into different regions, countries, design movements, and designer demographics, such as women or people of color, it is worth recognizing the beautiful and innovative contributions Strand made during the twentieth century.

 

Lauren Casolo is a fine art and antiques appraiser based in Atlanta, Georgia, with several years of experience in the art advisory, insurance, and auction industries.

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